Split
EUROPE · FIESTA · PALACE LIFE
A living city inside a Roman emperor's retirement palace — laundry lines over marble.
The plan
Diocletian's cellars early
The palace basements before the crowds, then coffee in the Peristyle.
Riva at dusk
The palm waterfront is Split's living room — everyone shows up before dinner.
Marjan hill swim
Locals' pine-covered peninsula: run or bike up, swim at Bene beach.
Bačvice & picigin
The city beach where locals play keep-it-up in ankle-deep water. Join in badly.
Island ferry roulette
Brač's Zlatni Rat, Hvar, Vis — the ferry port is a menu of day trips.
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