A capital built across fourteen islands where you can swim downtown and the metro is an art gallery.
Gamla Stan early
The medieval old town before the tour groups — Stortorget's painted houses at 8am.
Vasa Museum
A 1628 warship raised whole from the harbour. The best museum in Scandinavia, no argument.
Fika properly
Coffee and a kanelbulle, sitting down, twice a day. It's a national institution.
Metro art tour
Ninety stations decorated like caves and galleries — a normal ticket is the entry fee.
Archipelago boat
Vaxholm in an hour, Sandhamn in three; the islands are the city's soul.
Fly into
Arlanda (ARN); Bromma (BMA) is closer for a few regional routes.
From the airport
Arlanda Express in 18 minutes, or the cheaper Flygbussarna coach.
Getting around
Metro, buses and commuter ferries on one SL card; the centre is very walkable.
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Gamla Stan, and take it slowly — Fika at a konditori for dinner.
Day 3
Vasa Museum. Dinner at Östermalms Saluhall.
Day 5
Metro art tour. Köttbullar, the real ones at some point.
Day 7
A slower day around Norrmalm. Finish with Herring in every key.
Vaxholm & the archipelago
An hour by boat to the fortress town and the gateway to 30,000 islands.
Drottningholm
Forty minutes by ferry to a royal palace with an intact 18th-century theatre.
Uppsala
Forty minutes north for a cathedral, a Viking burial field and Sweden's oldest university.