Seven miles by seven miles of hills, fog and microclimates, with a bridge at one end that is somehow better than the photographs. San Francisco is a walking city that punishes you for it, a food town that punches far above its size, and the front door to wine country, redwoods and a coastline that runs for a thousand miles. Bring a jacket in July — the fog is not a joke.
Thirty minutes from downtown on BART for about $10, with direct flights from everywhere. The bay approach is worth a window seat.
Fly Oakland (OAK) or San Jose (SJC)
Oakland is often cheaper and 40 minutes by BART; San Jose is an hour south by Caltrain and good for Silicon Valley.
Getting around
Muni buses, the metro and BART cover nearly everything, and the cable cars are transport as well as a ride. Parking is expensive and break-ins are common — skip the car in the city.
When to go
Best time to go
September and October — the fog lifts, it's genuinely warm, and the city has its best weather of the year.
Cheapest months
January to March, when it rains and hotel rates fall by a third.
Priciest & busiest
June to August, when it's foggy and 15°C and everyone books anyway.
If you've got one day
Morning
Walk or cycle the Golden Gate Bridge
Late morning
The Mission
Lunch
La Taqueria
Afternoon
Golden Gate Park
Evening
Dinner at Zuni Café, then Alcatraz at night
If you've got a week
Day 1
Arrive, settle in around Hotel Drisco, and take it slowly — La Taqueria for dinner.